Mosaic Lattice Mittens

These amazing warm Mosaic Lattice Mittens will be your favorite mittens this winter and for years to come!

This site contains affiliate links and I may receive compensation for items purchased…..which means more free patterns for you!

Its that time of year again where you start searching for those warm mittens so your hands don’t freeze as you wait for you vehicle to warm up in the morning!

These mittens are perfect!  They are so warm, no questions asked.  The reason these are so warm is that you first crochet the mitten, then you add the surface stitches.  The combination of these two things make a very warm mitten that you will love!

Thanks to Lions Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern and for the beautiful color selection!

You can show this pattern a little love on Raverly by adding it to your Library and Liking it!

I have not made any photo/video tutorials to assist in this pattern but have several links that should help answer any questions.

Lattice Mittens
copyright KatiDCreations, 2017

Sizes:
Child 5T – 4.0mm (total yarn needed 2.6 oz)
Child 7T – 4.5mm (total yarn needed 3.4 oz)
Medium – 6.00mm (total yarn needed 4.4 oz)
Large – 6.50mm (total yarn needed 4.6 oz)

Gauge:
4.00mm – 12 rows x 15 HDC
4.50mm – 11 rows x 15 HDC
6.00mm – 10 rows x 13 HDC
6.50mm – 9 rows x 12 HDC

Stitches:
WS – wrong side/inside of glove
RS – right side/outside of glove
sl st – Slip Stitch
st(s) – Stitch(es)
sk – Skip
sp – Space
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
FPHDC – Front Post Half Double Crochet
BLO – Back Loop Only

Special Stitches:
MDC – Modified Double Crochet – YO 2x, insert hook in st, pull up loop, YO pull through 2 loops, YO pull through 3 loops

Child Size 5T

Materials:

Lions Brand Vanna’s Choice
Child 5T – Aqua (Mitten), White and Raspberry (Chained stitches woven through mitten)
Child 7T – Radiant Lime (Mitten), Black (Woven Stitches)
Medium – Silver Heather (Mitten), Mustard and Navy (Woven Stitches)
Large – Charcoal Grey (Mitten), Raspberry and Pink (Woven Stitches)

Notes:
1. Unless otherwise indicated you will always Join with a sl st in the top of the first st worked
2. CH2/CH3 may or may not count as a st so you will want to pay attention
3. On rows you join you will have 28 sts, on rows where you don’t join you will only have 27 sts
4. When working the Mitten rows, you will want to make the mitten a little long as the Lattice sts will pull the mitten in causing it to shorten in length.
5. You will notice a pattern of diamond shape crisscross from the chain 1 spaces appear as you work your rows, this is where you will be working your Lattice Stitches

Cuff
C1. Ch 8, HDC in second CH from hook, HDC across (7HDC)

C2. CH1, turn, HDC in first st, FPHDC in next 5 sts, HDC in last st (7 sts)

C3 – C22. Repeat R2

Put ends together and sl st to form a closed circle, creating the cuff of the mitten. Flip your cuff so the sl st seam is on the WS

Mitten
Working with RS facing
M1. CH1, evenly space 28 sts around cuff. Join.

M2. CH1, HDC in same as joining, CH1, sk next st, HDC in next 3 sts, CH1, sk next st, *HDC in next 3 sts, CH1, sk next st; repeat from * around, HDC in last 2 sts. Join (28 sts)

M3. CH3 (CH2 doesn’t count as a st, remaining CH counts as CH1 sp), sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, sk next st, HDC in next st, *CH1, sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, sk next st, HDC in next st; repeat from * around. Join in second CH of CH3 (28 sts)

M4. CH2, HDC in next CH1 sp, HDC in next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, *CH1, sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, HDC in next st, HDC in next CH1 sp; repeat from * around. Do not join (27 sts)

M5. (WS) CH2, turn, HDC in first st, *CH1, sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, sk next st, HDC in next st; repeat from * across. CH1, HDC in top of CH2 (27 sts)

M6. (RS) CH2, turn, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, sk next st, *HDC in next CH1 sp, HDC in next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, sk next st; repeat from * around, HDC in top of CH2 (27 sts)

M7. (WS) CH2, turn, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, sk next st, *HDC in next st, CH1, sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, sk next st; repeat from * across, HDC in top of CH2 (27 sts)

M8. CH2, turn, HDC in next CH1 sp, HDC in next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, *CH1, sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, HDC in next st, HDC in next CH1 sp; repeat from *across, CH1, HDC in next CH1 sp, HDC in next st, HDC in top of CH2, CH1. Join in first HDC (28 sts)

M9. CH1, HDC in next st, CH1, sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, *CH1, sk next st, HDC in next st, CH1, sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp; repeat from * around, CH1. Join (28 sts)

M10. CH3, (doesn’t count as HDC, does count as CH1 sp), sk st, HDC in next CH1 sp, HDC in next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, *CH1, sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, HDC in next st, HDC in next CH1 sp; repeat from * around. Join in second CH of CH3 (28 sts)

M11. CH1, *HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, sk next st, HDC in next st, CH1, sk next st; repeat from * around. Join (28 sts)

M12. CH1, HDC in same as joining, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, sk next st, *HDC in next CH1 sp, HDC in next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, sk next st; repeat from * around, HDC in last CH1 sp. Join (28 sts)

M13. CH1, HDC in same as joining, CH1, sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1, *sk next st, HDC in next st, CH1, sk next st, HDC in next CH1 sp, CH1; repeat from * around. Join (28 sts)

M14. Repeat M10

M15. Repeat M11

M16. Repeat M12 (If you are making Child 5T go to Finishing Off)

M17. Repeat M13 (If you are making Child 7T go to Finishing Off)

M18. Repeat M10

M19. Repeat M11 (If you are making Medium go to Finish Off)

M20. Repeat M12 (If you are making  Large go to Finish Off)

Finishing off:
F1. CH1, HDC in same as joining, *HDC in next CH sp, HDC in next st; repeat from * around. Join (28 sts)

F2. Counting joining loop as first loop, pull up a loop in every other st around, YO and pull through all 14 sts. Do not finish off your yarn. You will want to leave enough yarn to finish off. Rip out F2 so you can add in the Lattice surface sl st. Once you have finished the Lattice sts and secured all the ends you will rework F2 and this you will finish off and secure the end.

Lattice Surface Stitches
Notes:
1. All surface stitches and chain stitching was done with K/6.50mm hook
2. Child 5T was worked with a single strand of yarn
3. All other sizes were worked with 2 strands of yarn together
4. I started at the cuff of the mitten and worked my way towards the fingers
5. The hook hand will be outside the mitten while the yarn hand will be inside the mitten.

Child 5T- I recommend following one of these video tutorials by Naztazia or Marly Bird showing the process of weaving in a strip of ch sts. Reason for this is the mitten is quite small and working surfaces sts is difficult.

Child 7T, Medium and Large – Here is a tutorial by A Crocheted Simplicity showing how to work surface sts to achieve the lattice finish.  The process of alternating the colors is simply done by taking your time and ripping out when you make an error.

Sew in all the ends, I chose to use this method by Moogly Blog, I find that it is simple to do and keeps ends secure without all the knots.

Don’t forget to show a little love to those who spend so much time creating these tutorials by subscribing to their channel and following them.

Thumb:
Magic Circle
T1. CH1, work 6SC in magic circle. Join (6SC)

T2. CH1, HDC in same as joining, 2HDC in next st, *HDC in next st, 2HDC in next st; repeat around. Join (9 sts)

T3. CH1, HDC in each st around. Join (9 sts)

T4 – T7. Repeat T3 (for size 5T repeat through T6 then continue with T8)

T8. CH1, SC in same as joining, HDC in next, DC in next, 2MDC in next st, MDC in next st, 2MDC in next st, DC in next st, HDC in next st, SC in next st. Join

Attach your thumb by centering the 3rd MDC worked into the sp created when you did not join in M4. Working in the BLO whip st around. Finish off.

Now enjoy these amazingly warm and soft mittens!

Copyright KatiDCreations.com, 2017

If you would like to share this pattern, please grab one photo and share the link.  Do not republish or copy any portion of this pattern or claim it as your own.

Here are a few more free patterns you may like:



Crochet Around the Stitch

When I released my square Mock Bullion Flames for the Moogly 2017 CAL, I never imagined I would receive so many comments regarding issues on the first stitch on R2!  But apparently using the phrase ‘work around the CH2’ really confused quite a few people.

This site contains affiliate links, and I may be compensated for items purchased.  This does not create an extra expense for you but rather helps me continue providing patterns for you.

When designing this square I knew the Bullion Stitch is not a favorite among vary many people who crochet, and after playing around a bit I realized that working around a stitch created a very similar look to the Bullion Stitch, but you know without all the swearing.

Working around the CH2 simply means that you instead of working into a stitch and pulling up loops, you are using the CH2 (or DC) and working around the stitch, pulling up the loops as you would if you were working into a stitch.  The stitch is a cross between a Post Stitch, where you are working around a previous stitch from a previous row and a Puff Stitch, in pulling up multiple loops before you Yarn Over and pull through the loops on your hook.  So here are a few photos that I hope will help you work the Mock Bullion Stitch with a bit more ease.

Mock Bullion – CH2, (YO, working around the DC, pull up a loop) repeat 3 more times.


To finish off the stitch you will Yarn Over and pull through the first 8 loops on your hook, Yarn Over and pull through the remaining 2 loops. You have now completed the Mock Bullion Stitch

I do apologize for the confusion that was created when I did not provide further direction for how this Mock Bullion Stitch was worked.  Hopefully these photos have answered any remaining questions there are.

Here are a few more designs you may like:


 

Mock Bullion Flames

Don’t be afraid; there is not a single Bullion stitch in this square!  Although you don’t have to tell anyone that, haha.  This square is called ‘Mock Bullion Flames’ because there is a square called ‘Bullion Flames’ that I simply have not finished (I may have started it 2 winters ago) and gotten published yet.  It has a very similar look to this square, except there are no Mock stitches in it.

This site contains affiliate links and I may be compensated.

This square works up really quickly, has so much texture to it and would be perfect to help use up one of those randomly small balls of yarn.  There are plenty of photos and tutorial links included incase you should have any issues. And if working Back Post stitches is something you just really hate to do…..just do them anyway, this square is totally worth it!

 

Don’t forget to give the pattern a little love and add it to your Raverly Favorites

Mock Bullion Flames Granny Square
Copyright KatiDCreations.com, 2017

Materials:
Lions Brand Vannas Choice
Pink
Radiant Yellow
Dusty Purple
J/6.00mm hook

Gauge:
13 rows SC x 12 sts = 3 inches

Stitches:
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
sk st – Skip Stitch
sl st – Slip Stitch
YO – Yarn Over
Blo – Back Loop Only
TR – Treble Crochet
sp – Space

Special Stitches:
Invisible Join – Tutorial by LookatwhatImade
BPDC – Back Post, Tutorial by Mooglyblog
Standing DC – Standing Double Crochet, Tutorial by Mooglyblog
Mock Bullion – DC in indicated st, (YO, working around the DC, pull up a loop) repeat 3 more times. YO, pull, through 8 loops, YO pull through remaining 2 loops.  If you are in need for additional help here is a tutorial on the Mock Bullion Stitch
MTC – Modified Treble Crochet – YO 2x, insert hook were indicated, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops, YO and pull thorough remaining 3 loops

Notes:
– When instructed to work into the top of the Mock Bullion st, be sure you are crocheting in the DC that the loops are worked around.
– If you prefer you can join the new color with a Standing SC instead of the Joining, CH1, SC combination that is written in the pattern
– In R9 and R15 you will skip the first HDC after the corner,
– On R14 there will be 20 SC worked on every side, you can use stitch marker to determine where you corners are, work the stitches accordingly to where you joined your R13
– On R15 locate where the directions are for working in the ‘CH2 sp’ and then work backward to see what your stitch order will be

Colors:
CA – Pink
CB – Dusty Purple
CC – Radiant Yellow


CA
Magic Circle
R1. CH1, work 8SC in Magic Circle, Join with slst in first st.

R2. CH2, *YO working around the CH2, pull up loop; repeat from * 3 more times, YO pull through 8 loops, YO, pull through remaining 2 loops. CH1, **work a Mock Bullion st, CH1; repeat from ** in the remaining 6 SC. Finish off. Join with Invisible Join in the first Mock Bullion st where you pulled through the remaining 2 loops (8 Mock Bullion sts)

CB
R3. Join in BLO in top of any Mock Bullion, CH1, Blo SC in top of Mock Bullion and next st, SC around the CH, working in front of CH, work a BPDC st around the post of the SC between the 1st and 2nd Mock Bullion st of R2, *Blo SC in next 2 sts, SC around CH, working in front of CH, work a BPDC st around the post of the SC between the next two Mock Bullion st of R2; repeat from * around. Join with sl st in first SC (32 sts)

R4. CH1, SC in same as joining and around. Finish off. Join with Invisible Join

CC
R5. Working in any st, join with a Standing DC, CH2, sk next st, *DC, CH2, sk next st; repeat from * around. Finish off. Join with Invisible Join (16 DC, 16 CH2 sps)

CA
R6. Blo join in the top of any DC st, CH1, Blo SC in same as joining, SC around CH, working in R4, BPDC around Post st just to the left of the DC you worked on R5, (YO, working around the DC, pull up a loop) repeat 3 more times, YO, pull, through 8 loops, YO pull through remaining 2 loops, *SC around CH, Blo SC in next DC st, SC around CH, BPDC around next Post st just to the left of where the next DC on R5 was worked, (YO, working around the DC, pull up a loop) repeat 3 more times, YO, pull, through 8 loops, YO pull through remaining 2 loops; repeat from * 16 more times, SC around CH. Finish off. Join with Invisible Join (16 Mock Bullion sts)

CB
R7. Blo join in the top of any Mock Bullion st, CH1, Blo SC in same as joining, working around the Post of the next sk st from R5 work a BP TR, sk next 2 sts, Blo SC in next 2 sts, *Blo SC in top of Mock Bullion DC, working around the next Post of the next sk st from R5 work a BP TR, sk next 2 sts, Blo SC in next 2 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st in first SC (64 sts)

R8. CH1, SC in same as joining and around. (64 SC)

R9. CH1, SC in same as joining and in next 5 sts, HDC in each of the next 3 sts, DC in next st, DC and MTC in next st, CH2, MTC and DC in next st, DC in next st, HDC in each of the next 3 sts, *SC in each of the next 6 sts, HDC in each of the next 3 sts, DC in the next st, DC and MTC in next st, CH2 MTC and DC in next st, DC in next st, HDC in next 3 sts; repeat from * around. Join with st st in first st (72 sts)

R10. CH1, SC in same as joining and next 7 sts, HDC in the next 4 sts, work 4HDC in the CH2 sp, HDC in the next 4 sts, *SC in the next 9 sts, HDC in next 4 sts, work 4HDC in the CH2 sp, HDC in next 4 sts; repeat from * around, SC in next st. Finish off. Join with Invisible Join (84 sts)

CC
R11. Join with Standing DC in any st, CH1, sk next st, *DC in next st, CH1, sk next st; repeat from * around. Finish off. Join with Invisible Join

CA
R12. Join in the top of any DC with Standing SC, work a Mock Bullion around the next post st of R10 (post st just to the left of worked DC from R11), *SC in top of next DC, Mock Bullion around next post st of R10; repeat from * around. Finish off. Join with Invisible Join. (42 Mock Bullion sts)

CB
R13. Join in the top of any Mock Bullion, SC in same as joining, working in R10 BP TR around unworked post st, sk next 2 sts, *SC in top of next Mock Bullion, working in R10 BP TR around unworked post st, sk next 2 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st in first SC.

R14. (Depending on where you joining your R13 will depend on what order you sts will be) SC in same as joining, SC across to corner, (2HDC, CH2, 2HDC) in corner, *work 20 SC across to next corner, (2HDC, CH2, 2HDC) in corner; repeat from * around, SC in remaining unworked sts. Join with sl st in first SC.

R15. (Depending on where you joined your R13 will depend what order your sts will be) CH1, HDC in same as joining and next 5 sts, SC in next 7 sts, HDC in next 8 sts, (2HDC, CH2, 2HDC) in CH2 sp, *HDC in next 8 sts, SC in next 7 sts, HDC in next 8 sts, (2HDC, CH2, 2HDC) in CH2 sp, repeat from * around; HDC in remaining st. Join with sl st in first st.

Edging. CH1, HDC in same as joining and in each st across to corner, work 4 HDC in CH2 sp, *HDC across to corner, work 4 HDC in corner; repeat from * around, HDC in remaining sts. Finish off. Join with Invisible Join

Copyright KatiDCreations, 2017.  If you would like to link back to this feel free to grab a photo.  Do not copy and/or
repost this pattern or the directions in any way

Here are a few more patterns you may like!


Chevron Beanie

This site contains affiliate links and if you purchase something through a link I may be compensated for it, Which means more FREE patterns for you!

This Chevron Beanie is super cute and is so quick to work up!  You could easily complete a hat or two in an evening!

Chevron Beanie - KatiDCreations.com

This darling Chevron Beanie would be a great scrap buster project to help use up those small amounts of yarn you just can’t bring yourself to get rid of!

As you can see the Brim of the hat does not go all the way around the back of the hat which makes it much less bulky!  Another great feature of this hat is that there is no reducing to close the hat!  That’s right! Your nightmares of reducing are over (well as least when you make this hat)

Chevron Beanie - KatiDCreations.com

Don’t forget to show this pattern a little ‘Love’ by adding it pattern to your Raverly library!  You can also purchase an ad free PDF in HERE my Raverly store.  And don’t forget to link your completed hat in Raverly for others to see!

Chevron Slouchy

Materials:
6.00mm/J hook
Worsted Weight Yarn (this would be a great project for a stash/scrap buster)
Embroidery Needle
CA – Color A
CB – Color B

Gauge:
8 Rows of BP Chevron = 4 inches
14 Stitches = 4 inches

Sizes:
Large: Finished circumference – 23 1/2 inches, Chevron height – 7 1/2 inches
Medium: Finished circumference – 21 inches, Chevron height – 7 inches
Small: Finished circumference – 20 inches, Chevron height – 6 1/2 inches
Child: finished circumference – 18 1/2, Chevron height – 5 1/2 inches

Stitches:
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
st – Stitch
sk – Skip
sl st – Slip Stitch
st – Space

Special Stitches:
MDC – Modified Double Crochet – YO, insert hook in indicated st, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops, YO and pull through 1 loop, YO and pull through remaining 2 loops
BPsl st – Back Post Slip Stitch – Work hook from Back to Front to Back of indicated Post St, Yo and pull through loop
BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet – Tutorial by Moogly
Invisible Join tutorial by Look At What I Made
BLo – Back Loop Only – Tutorial by Moogly

Notes:
1. The Band of the hat can be made a wide or narrow as you like.
2. The pattern is written for the Large size; the Medium, Small and Child size is written inside the ()
3. Hat is worked in multiples of 8, if you want a big slouchy hat you will squeeze your SC together, if you want a more fitted hat you will want to space them out a bit more (but always in multiples of 8 stitches).
4. You will only turn your work when working the Band
5. If you chose to change colors you will do so while working the BPsl st (see Special Stitches), pick up the color change on the YO and pull through loop

Chevron Beanie

Band:

with CA
Base Chain – CH12, (12, 10, 8)

R1. HDC in second from hook, HDC across. CH1, turn. 11HDC (11, 9, 7)

R2. BLo HDC across. CH1, turn. 11BLo HDC (11, 9, 7)

Repeat R2 until have 36 rows (34, 32, 30)

R3. SC in first st, CH1, turn

Repeat R3 until you have a total Band length is 18 1/2 inches (18, 17 1/2, 16 1/2)

Once you have the total length, turn, (don’t CH1) insert hook into both loops of the last worked SC and into the Base CH, YO and pull through loop.

R4. CH1, working in end of rows work 72 SC (72, 64, 56) evenly around. Finish off, Invisible Join.

Hat:

with CB
R1. Join in any SC (I recommend joining in the back of the hat), CH1, SC *HDC, DC (MDC, CH2, MDC) in same st, DC, HDC, SC in next 3 sts; repeat from * around, SC in last 2 sts. Join with sl st in next st

R2. BPsl st around next st, CH1, BPDC around same and next 2 sts, (DC, CH2, DC) in CH2 sp, BPDC around next 3 sts, *Ch1, sk next 3 sts, BPDC aroudn next 3 sts, (DC, CH2, DC) in CH2 sp, BPDC around next 3 sts, CH1, sk next 3 sts; repeat from * around. Join with sl st in first st.

Repeat R2, (changing colors as desired) until you have 8 inches of Chevron (7 1/2, 7, 6). Finish off leaving long tail to close hat.

Joining/Closing of Hat:
Sl st in each of the next 3 BP DC, pull up a loop in the CH2 sp, continue to pull up a loop in each of the CH2 sps around.   YO and pull through all loops.  Finish off.

Copyright KatiDCreations, October 2016.  This is an original design, do not republish or distribute this pattern or photos in any way.  You may share a photo and link back to this pattern.  Feel free to gift, sell or donate any finished items made from this pattern.

Here a few other designs you may enjoy!

The Short Chevron Scarf

I love big bulky scarfs. They are so warm and are perfect to help keep that wind off your face.  I had intended for this to be a long scarf……however I lost a game of ‘yarn chicken’ and couldnt find the same dye lot.  So here we have it. The Short Chevron Scarf.  and to be perfectly honest I kinda love the way it turned out!  I have always done the traditional long scarves that are wrapped around my neck several times. …..but this tying the scarf I think is really cute!

This Short Chevron Scarf is a quick repeating pattern that does not require you to work into a chain stitch but rather has you do a work a Foundation Single Crochet stitch which is so much easier!

Special Stitches:

FSC – Foundation Single Crochet – Tutorial by Moogly Blog
MDC – YO, insert hook in st, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 1 loop, YO and pull through remaing 2 loops

Stitches:

sk st – skip stitch
st (s)- Stitch(es)
YO – Yarn Over
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
*FPDC – Front Post Double Crochet

Materials:

Loops and Thread Impeccable
6.00m/J hook
Embroidery Needle

Color Changes:

Work rows in even numbers, the Gold is 8 rows, Dark Purple is 6 rows and Light Purple is 4 rows

Note:

*if you don’t like working post stitches you can still make this scarf!  Just work the stitch in the top of the previous row instead of around it!

Short Chevron Scarf

FSC working in multiples of 11 + 10

R1. CH1, turn, SC in next 2 sts, HDC, DC, MDC, CH2, MDC, DC, HDC, *SC in next 5 sts, HDC, DC, MDC, CH2, MDC, DC, HDC; repeat from * across, SC in next 2 sts.  CH2, Turn.

R2. sk first st, FPDC around each of the next 3 sts, (DC, CH2, DC) in CH2 sp, *FPDC around each of the next 4 sts, CH1, sk next 3 sts, FPDC around each of the next 4 sts, (DC, CH2, DC) in CH2 sp; repeat from * across, FPDC around next 3 sts, sk next st, DC in last st.  CH2, Turn.

Repeat R2 until desired is reached

Copyright KatiDCreations, 2016.  Please dont republish any portion of this pattern.  You can grab a photo and share the link to this original post.  Feel free to gift, sell or donate any items made from this pattern.

Here are a few other Chevron designs you might like:

Waves of Chevron - KatiDCreations.com

Chevron Scarf - KatiDCreations.com

Chevron Beanie - KatiDCreations.com

Chevron Scarf

This site contains affiliate links and I may be compensated for any items purchased through said links.

Here is a fun Chevron Scarf that is perfect for using up those of those small balls of yarn that you just don’t know what to do with but you cant bring yourself to get rid of them!  This colorful chevron scarf is so warm and has so much texture!  Once you get the first row done you will fly through this simple repeating pattern and have it completed in no time!

On the comical side of things….when my dad saw this latest project he asked if I was trying to show off how many colors I had!  I had a good laugh!

Chevron Scarf - KatiDCreations.com

Materials:
6.00/J hook
Scrap yarn
(Hook size does not matter for this design. I know I mixed different brands of yarn when completing this project)

Gauge:
Not important for this pattern

Stitches:
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
YO – Yarn Over
st(s) – Stitch(es)
sk – Skip
BLO – Back Loop Only
RS – Right Side

Special Stitches:
MDC – Modified Double Crochet – YO, insert hook in indicated st, pull up loop, YO and pull through 2 loops, YO pull through 1 loop, YO pull through remaining 2 loops.
SSC – Standing Single Crochet – Tutorial by Moogly Blog
BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet – Tutorial by Moogly Blog
SDC – Standing Double Crochet – Tutorial by Moogly Blog
Invisible Join by Look at What I Made

Notes:
1. Pattern is worked in multiples of 10, scarf seen is 300 SSC long
2. Entire project is worked with the right side facing once you start the chevron stitching, so after reaching the end of the scarf you will finish off and not turn
3. Each color is only worked for 1 row, if you want to work it for more than 1 row then simply CH1 and turn and work Front Post Double Crochets

Basic Chevron Scarf

Foundation Row:.
Work desired amount of SSC to achieve the scarf length, CH1, turn

R1. (RS) SC in next 2 sts, HDC, DC, MDC, CH2, MDC, DC, HDC, SC in next 2 sts, *SC in next 2 sts, HDC, DC, MDC, CH2, MDC, DC, HDC, SC in next 2 sts; repeat from * across. Finish off.

R2. Join with SDC in first st, sk next st, BPDC around next 3 sts, (DC, CH2, DC) in CH2 sp, *BPDC around next 4 sts, sk next 2 sts, BPDC around next 4 sts, (DC, CH2, DC) in CH2 sp; repeat from * across, BPDC around next 3 sts, sk next st, DC in last st. Finish off.

repeat R2 until desired width is reached

Final Chevron Row:
Join with SDC in first st, sk next st, BPDC around next 3 sts, work 2 DC in the CH2 sp, *BPDC around the next 4 sts, sk the next 2 sts, BPDC around the next 4 sts, work 2 DC in the CH2 sp; repeat from * across, BPDC around next 3 sts, sk next st, DC in last st. Finish off.

Edging:
RS facing, Join with SC in first st, working in BLO SC in each stitch across to corner, work 2 SC in corner, evenly work SC down the edge of scarf to corner, work 2 SC in corner, SC across the Foundation Row to corner, work 2 SC in corner, evenly work SC down the final edge of scarf, work 1 additional SC in the corner of the scarf.  Finish off and Invisible Join

Copyright KatiDCreations 2016.  Do not republish any portion of this pattern or photos or recreate it for your own publication.  Please feel free to share a photo and link back to this original design!

Here are few more free designs you might love!

Third Loop Cowl - KatiDCreations.com

Evalyns Flower - KatiDCreations.com

Waves of Chevron - KatiDCreations.com

The Forgiving Lover’s Knot

This site contains affiliate links and I may be compensated for purchases made…..which means more FREE patterns for you!

I have heard that people don’t want to try Solomon’s/Lover’s Knot because of the simple reason that they are scared that they wont be able to keep their stitches even.  Well I’m here to tell you that you can do it!  Do you remember when you first started crocheting?  How much work you would have to put into those stitches to get them to look right?  (I sure do) Think of how much your stitching has improved since those first stitches.  They improved because you didn’t let that first try be your last!  It is the same story with all new stitches we try.  The first few times they may not look quite right, but we keep trying and in a short while the stitches are much improved!

The key to keeping your stitches even is simple:
take your time; keeping the tension the same as you work each stitch around your thumb.

Yes this beautiful stitch is really that simple.  And after a bit of practice you will be breezing through this stitch in no time

So now that you know all the tips for this stitch its time for you to try it out yourself! Solomon’s/Lover’s Knot Tutorial available HERE

Now that you have that stitch down, here are several beautiful patterns for you to practice with!  Some are more simple while others have a bit more detail and construction.

This versatile wrap is perfect accessory for those chilly days. by StitchesnScraps
http://stitchesnscraps.com/free-pattern-blueberry-hill/

This stunning blanket combines two beautiful stitches Broomstick Lace with the Solomons Knot edging. by Naztaria
http://naztazia.com/patterns/crochet/home/blankets/broomstick-lace-crochet-baby-blanket-throw-afghan.html

This beautiful top is a quick project!  and easily can be completed in a day. by KatiDCreations
Lover's Knot Swim Cover - KatiDCreations.com

This precious blanket! by Crafting Friends Designs
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/with-all-my-heart-photo-prop

These darling finger-less wristlets are a perfect touch for that outdoor wedding! by Articles of a Domestic Goddess
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/love-is-in-the-air-wedding-gloves-wristlets

If you are loving this stitch then here is the perfect e-book for you!  14 different designs featuring Solomons Knot
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/battle-of-the-stitches-round-4-love-knot-stitch/patterns

Here is a darling Poncho by The Country Willow
http://www.thecountrywillows.com/store/p60/Neverending_Love_Poncho_%2A%2APATTERN_ONLY%2A%2A.html

Copyright KatiDCreations.com, 2016.  Do not repost any portion of this pattern.  You can grab a photo and link back to this original post.

You may also like these patterns!

Apache Tear Wash Cloth - KatiDCreations

Star Mittens - KatiDCreations

KatiDCreations.com

Lovers Knot Swim Cover

This site contains affiliate ads which means I may be compensated for items purchased……which means more FREE patterns for you!

Lovers/Somomons Knot is such a wonderful stitch and makes a beautiful summer top!  These basic directions will help you achieve whatever size top you are wanting! From a small child to a robust lady.  This would also make a super cute top for photographing an expecting mother!

Lover's Knot Swim Cover - KatiDCreations.com
Materials:
Bernat Maker – Home Dec
N/9.00mm hook
Embroidery Needle
Scissors
Stitch Markers (optional)

Size:
The Blue used just over 8.8 oz (1 skein)
The Pink used about 1/2 of a skein

Gauge:
No gauge is needed for this pattern

Stitch Guide:
SC – Single Crochet
CH – Chain

Special Stitches:
Lover/Solomon’s Knot – Tutorial by KatiDCreations

This is not an exact word for word pattern, rather it is all the necessary directions needed to complete this beautiful shirt!

Lover's Knot Swim Cover - KatiDCreations.com

*Note*
1. There are several different ways to work Lovers/Solomon’s Knot, the tutorial provided is simply the way I work mine.
2. The top is worked across from one arm to the center (where the opening for the head will be worked) to the other arm
3. The stitch markers will help in making sure you are working your side joining in the correct stitches.
4. Keep in mind that this stitch does have a bit of stretch length wise and depending on what yarn you chose to use can also increase the stretch, so you may want to make it an inch or 2 shorter then the desired finished length.
5. Make sure that you make the top wide enough to fit over your shoulders/hips.
6. The tightness in which you work your side joining is the determining factor on what size the finished item will be.

Lover's Knot Swim Cover - KatiDCreations.com

Lovers Knot Cover

Working in multiples of 2 + 3 work the Solomon’s/Lover’s Knot until you get the desired length, then continue following the stitch pattern until it is the width you want to the center.

Once you get the top wide enough and you are ready to work the opening for your head you can follow this tutorial by KatiDCreations

Continue on with the stitch pattern until you have gotten the second half of your top the same width as the side prior to the opening for the head. Finish Off.  To secure my ends I followed this tutorial by Moogly Blog

To close the sides and create your arm holes you will be working this stitch placement. You will start at the bottom of  work and join at #1, then continue working your way up each numbered stitch until you have closed the side enough and gotten the desired arm hole size. Finish off and secure both the ends. OR! Solomons Knot Swim Cover - KatiDCreations.com
If you want to make your top a little more fitted, then you will want to follow these next few photos.  In the previous photo you see where you would work the outer most row together, in this photo you can see I am still working in the same row; however I am working in the 3rd knot in on both sides.Solomons Knot Swim Cover - KatiDCreations.com
Here is the piece laying flat, you can see with the color contrast how the seam is worked in the top, creating a much more fitted shape.  I was not sure how closed up I wanted my arm hole to be so I worked one seam to create a smaller arm hole and then tried it on.  I prefer the tighter arm hole.  So now that I know what size arm hole I want I will carefully take the contrasting color out, placing stitch markers in the stitches used in the joining.  By doing this I can now crochet in the main body color and I wont have to figure where to work the stitches all over again.

You can also see that the joining seam moves in as you get closer to the top.  I simply moved from the 3rd knot and worked the final few stitches in the 4th knot helping to make the top more fitted around the bust.  Solomons Knot Swim Cover - KatiDCreations.com

Copyright KatiDCreations, 2016 Do not repost any portion of this pattern.  You can grab one photo and link back to this original post.  Feel free to sell, gift or donate any items made from this pattern.

Here are few other patterns that you may enjoy:

Squared Lines - KatiDCreations.com

Waves of Chevron - KatiDCreations.com
Modern Red Riding's Hood - KatiDCreations

Optical Illusion Tutorial

This site contains affiliate ads and when you purchase something I may be compensated……which means more FREE patterns for you!

This tutorial is intended to go with the Optical Illusion Square

*NOTE*
The photos are to be used in assisting stitch placement, not all the stitches are shown in the photos so be sure to follow the written directions as you go.

R3. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R1, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R1, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in Ch2 space; repeat from around. Finish offOptical Illusion Tutorial - KatiDCreations.com
R4. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R2, sk next st, SC in next st, FP MDC in R2, sk next st, SC in next st (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, SC in next st, FP MDC in R2, sk next st, SC in next st, FP MDC in R2, sk next st, SC in next st (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish OffOptical Illusion Tutorial - KatiDCreations.com
R5. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R3, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP MDC in R3, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R3, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP MDC in R3, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish OffOptical Illusion Tutorial - KatiDCreations.com
R6. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R4, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R3, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R4, sk next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R4, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R3, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R4, sk next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish OffOptical Illusion Tutorial - KatiDCreations.com
R7. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R5, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R4, sk next st, SC in next st, FP TC in R4, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R5, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R5, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R4, sk next st, SC in next st, FP TC in R54 sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R5, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish OffOptical Illusion Tutorial - KatiDCreations.com
R8. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R6, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R5, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP TC in R5, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R6, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R6, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R5, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP TC in R5, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R6, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish OffOptical Illusion Tutorial - KatiDCreations.com

Copyright KatiDCreations, 2016. Do not repost any portion of this pattern, you may grab one photo and link back to this original post.  Feel free to sell, gift or donate any items made from this pattern.

Here are a few other patterns you may like!

Apache Tear Wash Cloth - KatiDCreations

Evalyns Flower - KatiDCreations.com

Star Mittens - KatiDCreations

 

Optical Illusion Square

This site contains affiliate links and I may be compensated for any purchases made……which means more FREE patterns for you.

Its amazing that by simply changing the number of rows between color changes can create such a different look from the original pattern!

This first square was the original design.  Mosaic Ripples - KatiDCreations.com

The only thing I did different to create the very different looking square is to change the color every row.

Squared Lines - KatiDCreations.com

Materials:
5.5mm hook
Lions Brand Vanna’s Choice – Found HERE
Black – CA
Aqua – CB
White – CC
Scissors
Embroidery Needle

Stitch Guide:
YO – Yarn Over
CH – Chain
sl st – Slip Stitch
SC – Single Crochet
FP – Front Post – You can check out this tutorial by Moogly if you need a little extra help

Special Stitches:
Invisible Join – Look At What I Made
FP MDC – Front Post Modified Double Crochet: YO, insert hook from front to back to front, YO and pull up a loop (should have 3 loops on your hook), YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through 1 loop, YO, pull through remaining 2 loops
FP TC – Front Post Treble Crochet: YO twice, insert hook from front to back to front, YO and pull up a loop (should have 4 loops on your hook), YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through remaining 2 loops.  You can check out this tutorial by Moogly if you need a little extra help

Gauge:
15 SC x 13 rows

Notes:
1. When directed to ‘Finish Off’ you will always work an Invisible Join method unless directed otherwise.
2. Starting in R3, when ‘Join’ your next color, you will always Join in the first SC after any CH2 space
3. When working the FP MDC you will be working around the post of the stitch worked 2 rows prior
4. When working the FP TC you will be working around the post st completed 3 rows prior
5. When you ‘sk next st’, it refers to the stitch you would have worked in if you had not done the post stitch

For help with stitch placement you can check out this tutorial by KatiDCreations HERE!

Squared Lines - KatiDCreations.comDont forget to add this to your Raverly favorites HERE, and don’t forget to add you completed project!  I would love to see your work!

Optical Illusion Square

Magic Circle

CA
R1. CH1, work 12 SC in Magic Circle. Finish Off

CB
R2. Join in any st, SC in same as joining and next st, CH2, *SC in next 3 sts, CH2; repeat from * around, SC in last st.  Finish off

CC
R3. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R1, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R1, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in Ch2 space; repeat from around. Finish off

CA
R4. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R2, sk next st, SC in next st, FP MDC in R2, sk next st, SC in next st (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, SC in next st, FP MDC in R2, sk next st, SC in next st, FP MDC in R2, sk next st, SC in next st (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish Off

CB
R5. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R3, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP MDC in R3, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R3, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP MDC in R3, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish Off

CC
R6. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R4, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R3, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R4, sk next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R4, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R3, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R4, sk next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish Off

CA
R7. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R5, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R4, sk next st, SC in next st, FP TC in R4, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R5, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R5, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R4, sk next st, SC in next st, FP TC in R54 sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R5, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish Off

CB
R8. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R6, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R5, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP TC in R5, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R6, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R6, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R5, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP TC in R5, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R6, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish Off

CC
R9. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R7, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R6, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP TC in R6, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R7, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R7, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R6, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP TC in R6, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R7, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space. Finish Off

CA
R10. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R8, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R7, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R7, sk next st, SC in next st, FP TC in R7, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R7, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R8, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R8, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R7, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R7, sk next st, SC in next st, FP TC in R7, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R7, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R8, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space. Finish Off

CB
R11. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R9, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R8, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R8, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP TC in R8, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R8, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R9, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R9, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R8, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R8, sk next st, SC in next 3 sts, FP TC in R8, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R8, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, FP MDC in R9, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish Off

CC
R12. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R10, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, (FP TC in R9, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts) repeat four more times, FP MDC in R10, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 sp, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R10, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts, (FP TC in R9, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts) repeat 4 more times, FP MDC in R10, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 st; repeat from * around. Finish Off

CA
R13. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R11, sk next st, (SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R11, sk next st) repeat twice more, SC in next st, (FP TC in R10, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts) repeat twice more, FP MDC in R11, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R11, sk next st, (SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R10, sk next st) repeat twice more, SC in next st, (FP TC in R10, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts) repeat twice more, FP MDC in R11, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish Off

CB
R14. Join, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R12, sk next st, (SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R11, sk next st) repeat twice more, SC in next 3 sts, (FP TC in R11, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts) repeat twice more, FP MDC, sk next st, SC in next st (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space, *SC in next st, FP MDC in R12, sk next st, (SC in next 2 sts, FP TC in R11, sk next st) repeat twice more, SC in next 3 sts, (FP TC in R11, sk next st, SC in next 2 sts) repeat twice more, FP MDC, sk next st, SC in next st (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around. Finish Off

For a 12 inch square continue repeating, you will want to stop when your square gets to be about 11 inches then work the Edging.  This square will need to be blocked out a bit to get it to lay flat.

Edging:
With color of choice
E1. Join, in the top of any MDC after the CH2 space, SC in same as joining, FP MDC in R16, sk next st, FP TC in R15, sk next st, (SC in next st, FP MDC in R16, sk next st, FP TC in R15, sk next st) repeat twice more, (FP MDC in R16, sk next st, SC in next st, FP TC in R15, sk next st) repeat twice more, FP MDC in R16, sk next st, SC in next st, FP MDC in R16, sk next st, (SC, CH2, SC in CH2 space), *SC in next st, FP MDC in R16, sk next st, (SC in next st, FP MDC in R16, sk next st, FP TC in R15, sk next st) repeat three more times, (FP MDC in R16, sk next st, SC in next st, FP TC in R15, sk next st) repeat twice more, FP MDC in R16, sk next st, SC in next st, FP MDC in R16, sk next st, SC in next st, (SC, CH2, SC) in CH2 space; repeat from * around, SC in next st, FP MDC in R16. Do Not Finish Off, Join with sl st in first SC

E2. CH1, SC in same as joining and in each st across to CH2 space, work 3 SC in CH2 space, *SC in each st around to CH2 space, work 3 SC in CH2 space; repeat from * around, SC in remaining 3 sts. Finish Off

Copyright KatiDCreations, 2016.  Do not repost any portion of this pattern.  You can grab a photo and link back to this original design.  Feel free to sell, gift or donate any items made from this pattern.

Here are a few other designs you may like:

Waves of Chevron - KatiDCreations.com

Bullion - KatiDCreations.com

Circle Foot Jewelry - KatiDCreations.com