Squared Ripples – Drop DC Tutorial

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For those of you who like using photos to double check that you are placing your stitches in the correct spot, here is a quick tutorial to help you as you work your way though the Squared Ripples square.

Squared Ripples - KatiDCreations.com
The pattern is repeating so here are a few photos of the first few rows…..once you get the hang of the first few rows you should have no problem.

Notes:
1. I have the photos labeled which row was worked while taking the photos.

2. The numbers (#1, #2, #3…..) show the order of where the stitches are worked.

3. In the first photo, #3, the second Blo SC is working into the Bl of the first CH stitch.  In the second photo, #1, you will be working your first Blo SC into the second CH stitch.

First 2 photos is showing where to place the stitches while working R3

Squared Ripples Tutorial- KatiDCreations.com

Squared Ripples Tutorial- KatiDCreations.com

This photo shows the placement of stitches while working R4

Squared Ripples Tutorial- KatiDCreations.com

This next photo shows stitch placement while working R5

Squared Ripples Tutorial- KatiDCreations.com

Photo shows where to add in the 3rd Drop DC stitch while working R9.

Squared Ripples Tutorial- KatiDCreations.com

Copyright KatiDCreations, 2016.  Please do not repost any portion of this pattern, if you would like to share please grab one photo and link back to this original post.

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Apache Tear Wash Cloth - KatiDCreations
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Stitch Markers to Eliminate the Joining Seam

This site contains affiliate ads which means if you purchase something I may be compensated….which means more FREE patterns for you!

Now there is a great many uses for stitch markers!  But this tutorial will focus on the use of stitch markers to eliminate the joining seam.

Now until recently I would avoid patterns that required stitch markers like the plague!  For whatever reason I had a seriously unfounded fear of using them.  But then I realized (after a huge failure and very noticeable seam down a 4 hour project) that sometimes its best to follow the directions, suck it up and use a stitch marker.

Stitch Markers to Eliminate the Joining Seam - KatiDCreations.comBut the purpose of this tutorial will to show you how very simple it is to use stitch markers! Really, if this is your first encounter with stitch markers you will love how easy it is!  Now if your one of those brave souls who thinks ‘stitch markers?! I don’t need no stinking stitch markers!’ well, your much braver than I am; because, if you loose count it will not be fun as you try to figure out what row you are currently working (trust me on this!!!).

So all you need in addition to you hook and yarn to complete this is your stitch marker, or bobby pin, or twist tie, or as I use – a random piece of yarn about 5 inches long.  All of these work, but I find that my actual stitch markers walk off (or my kids find them), but I always have a little scrap yarn around the house.

When working with stitch markers all that is needed to be done, is place the stitch marker in the indicated stitch.  I do not recommend placing the marker around the post of the stitch as it could cause a bit of confusion.  I also recommend that as soon as you work the next stitch to receive a stitch marker that you promptly place the stitch marker in said stitch, then you can remove the previous marker, (Ex. The purple stitch marker has been placed, so now I can remove the green stitch marker).  Don’t work a few more stitches prior to placing the marker, especially if your new to using stitch markers as you could easily mistake the stitch to place the marker in.

Stitch Markers to Eliminate the Joining Seam - KatiDCreations.comUnless otherwise directed in the pattern, you can remove the stitch markers as you work your way through the rows.  And that is all that is needed.

Here are a few free patterns for you to test out your new found skill!  Have fun!
Military Hat - KatiDCreations
Newborn Cowboy Hat - KatiDCreations.com

Copyright KatiDCreations, 2015.  Please do not repost any portion of this pattern or photos. If you would like to link back to this post you may use one photo and link back to this posting.

You may like these other free patterns.Ring of Petals - KatiDCreations
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Bavarian Washcloth

This site contains affiliate links and I may be compensated when something is purchased which means more FREE patterns for you!

Bavarian Washcloth - KatiDCreations.comMy Bavarian Square Washcloth was so fun to make!  I had long been wanting to try this beautiful Bavarian Stitch and when I came across the great tutorial by The Stitchen Mommy  knew I it was time to give it a try!  It did take a minute to get a hang of the stitch pattern but by my second square it was a breeze and I was a pro!!

Why make it into a washcloth?  I find that doing washcloths and is a great way to try out a new stitch without committing to a huge project!  Plus you have something useful at the end of it!

Materials:
Sugar and Cream Cotton
4.0 mm hook

Stitches:
I simply followed the great tutorial by The Stitchen Mommy found HERE!  There are dozens of photos to help with stitch placement and will have you whipping out this beautiful pattern in no time!

Bavarian Washcloth - KatiDCreations.com

I love the texture and think this would make an absolutely beautiful afghan!

Here are a few other washcloth patterns you may enjoy making also!  Simply click the picture below!

washcloth
Apache Tear Wash Cloth - KatiDCreations
Rainbow Daze - Simply Collectible Crochet
Celtic Weave Color Change Tutorial
Here are a few more free patterns:
Bloom of Spring - KatiDCreations
Ring of Petals - KatiDCreations
Chevron Belt - KatiDCreations

Apache Tears Washcloth

This site contains affiliate links, I may be compensated from purchases made from clicking on one.  Which means more FREE patterns for you!

This was my first time doing the Apache Tears stitch, this brightly colored washcloth was my first attempt.

Apache Tear Wash Cloth - KatiDCreations

And as you can see for yourself it was not ‘pretty’.  I had worked the DTR – Drop stitch Treble Crochet pattern completely from edge to edge, so when I crocheted the boarder I crochet around the DTR; which created a very bulky edging. So….
Apache Tear Wash Cloth - KatiDCreations
My next wash cloth I tried something a little different.  You can see on the left side of photo below where the 2 arrows are seen, that there is a space where a DTR stitch could be worked in blue, but was skipped along the entire left edge.  On the right side you can see the bottom arrow where I worked the yellow DTR for 3 repeats, and the top arrow shows on the final 2 repeats I chose to skip it to see how it would look.Apache Tear Wash Cloth - KatiDCreations
You can see that with this edging I crochet in the rows and not around the DTR as I had previously done with the first washcloth.  So after all of this I do believe that when I use this pattern again I will crochet all the way from one edge to the other with the DTR and will make sure to not to crochet the DRT in with the edging.Apache Tear Wash Cloth - KatiDCreations
To avoid 1. either crocheting the edging around all of those ends or 2. working them in once I was finished with the project.  So what I did was simply worked the end in as I SC from Right to Left, and as I approached the center of the project I grabbed the finished end on the Left side from the previous row and crochet over the top of it; which caused the ends to meet in the middle of the project.  I simply cut the ends from here and did not do any additional weaving in.
Apache Tear Wash Cloth - KatiDCreations

In order to determine the beginning CH you decide how many colors you want to use before beginning the repeating pattern +1 (for the CH).  Or if your doing multiple rows without changing the colors, you will determine how many rows before you do a repeat +1 (for the CH).

Example:
1.The first washcloth I did uses 5 colors, so do multiples of 5 + 1 – every 5 stitches your color repeats
2. The second washcloth only uses 4 colors, so do multiples of 4 +1 – every 4 stitches your color repeats
3. If you want to do just 2 colors but its 7 rows before the repeat begins you would do multiples of 7 + 1

Of course this is just a recommendation, and really is open to however you want to do it.  I could have done the 5 colors but had much more space between sets of drop down stitches.  Click HERE for additional ideas on how to space your stitches

I do recommend a minimum of 3 SC between DTR.

Apache Tears Wash Cloth

Materials:
Sugar and Cream Cotton
4.5mm hook

Stitches:
SLST – Slip Stitch
CH – Chain
SSC – Standing Single Crochet – Tutorial by Moogly can be found HERE
SC – Single Crochet
DTR – Drop Stitch Treble Crochet – Tutorial for Treble Crochet by Moogly can be found HERE

Special Notes:
1. All Standing/Single Crochet will be worked in the Back Loop
2. The Drop Treble Crochet will be worked in the Front Loop of the Single crochet 3 rows prior
3. For this entire project you will work only from Right to Left.  You will cut/end your yarn when you get done with the last stitch.  You will not turn and work back across the row
4. Your DTR will be worked in the stitch just after the prior DTR of the prior row

CH 29 – will give you the finished look of the Blue Washcloth

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and across

Row 2: SSC, SC across

Row 3: repeat row 2

Change Color

Row 4: SLST in the Back Loop of the first SC, CH1, *DTR, SC in the next 3 stitches*, repeat from *to* across

Change Color

Row 5: SSC, DTR, *SC in next 3 stitches, DTR*, repeat from *to* across, SC in last 2 stitches

Change Color

Row 6: SSC, SC, DTR, *SC in next 3 stitches, DTR*, repeat from *to* across, SC in last stitch

Change Color

Row 7:SSC, SC in the next 2 stitches, DTR, *SC in next 3 stitches, DTR*, repeat from *to* across

Repeat rows 4 – 7 until desired length is reached.

Love making washcloths?! Here are a few more patterns that you may want to try!Firewheel Scrubbie - Simply Collectable Crochet
Celtic Weave Color Change Tutorial
Shads of Sugar and Cream - American Crochet
Copyright KatiDCreations 2015, Do not copy and repost any portion of this pattern.  You may use one photo and link back to the original pattern.

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Circle Belt

After making my Circle Foot Jewelry, I had lots of those circles left so I decided I needed to try making a belt!  I loved this idea from the beginning and honestly went out to grab another bag of those circles just to make sure I had plenty!

This is a really fun pattern and can be worked up really quickly!  and can easily be adjusted to fit larger sizes by simply adding more rings.  Feel free to get creative with the different sized rings!!
Circle Belt - KatiDCreations
Stitches:
SLST – Slip Stitch
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet

Materials:
Circles – 1 1/2 inch and 1 1/8 inch – found at craft stores
9 steel hook
Aunt Lydia’s Thread size 10
Beads – optional but highly suggested
Sewing NeedleCircle Belt - KatiDCreations
Circle Belt

While working with above listed thread and hook size, I followed the tutorial from Cre8tions Crochet for crocheting the rings and for joining.  Tutorial can be found HERE

*Note* I crocheted my two pink circles together – crochet the first circle all the way around, join with a SLST in first SC, place second ring againts the back of the first ring and then joined with a SLST into the next ring, CH1 and SC around that ring. Finish off and Join in the first SC in of second ring.

Tie – String Beads onto thread and work them into the CH as you desire.  CH until desired length is reached, SC into a SC on the last ring, SC into next 2 stitches, and CH until desired length is reached and Finish Off.  If you like you can string beads on contrasting color, join in the second SC and CH until desired length is reached. Finish Off
Circle Belt - KatiDCreations

Here are a few more free patterns you may like:
Circle Foot Thong/KatiDCreations
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Joining Circle – Not in the Base Chain

This site may contain affiliate links and I may be compensated for any purchases made…..which means more free patterns for you!

I really dread the frustration that comes, when after joining my long chain and working the first round of stitches only to realize that I have twisted the chain.  Which means I now have to frog it (rib-it rib-it – the sound a frog makes) and try again.

Well after one of those said frustrating times I decided to try something new!  Instead of joining and then working in each chain around why not work an extra chain (or however many is needed for the stitches being worked in the first row) and then work back across the row of chains and then join in the first stitch I made.  Then to close the base chain, simply loop the tail through both loops (from front to back of your work) of the ch that the first stitch is worked in and then into the back loop of the chain the last stitch was worked in.

By working the first row of stitches and then joining I no longer have to worry about if my chain is twisted or making sure that I crocheted in all the necessary chains!

I find that this tip is a huge time saver and hope that you do as well.

Try it out with your favorite cowl pattern or try this one!
Peaks and Valley Cluster Drop Stitch

Copyright KatiDCreations 2015, please do not repost any part of this tutorial or video.

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Straight Striped Cowl - KatiDCreations.com
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Granny square

Celtic Weave Color Change

This site contains affiliate ads, I may be compensated for any purchases made….which means more free patterns for you!

This is a beautiful washcloth.  I love the way the Celtic Weave works and the lovely texture it provides.  But, I was not simply satisfied with using one color, I wanted two.  That way I could really see the texture and pattern in the stitching.Celtic Weave Color Change Tutorial
After much trial and error I figured out how to work the stitches to keep the back looking nice without having random loops from where I pulled up a color or carried a color across.  Celtic Weave Color Change Tutorial

This color change video tutorial is intended for persons already familiar with how Celtic Weave is worked.  The Celtic Weave stitch with a little patience is a ‘quick learn’ and can be found Here if you would like to give it a try before trying the color change tutorial

*note*  I am aware that I call the Alternate DC Starting Chain a Standing DC, hopefully this will not cause any confusion.

Materials:
5.0mm hook
Sugar and Cream
Embroidery Needle

Stitches:
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
Alternate DC Starting Chain – Charmed by Ewe
Treble Crochet Tutorial – Moogly Blog
Celtic Weave – Charmed By Ewe

Finished size is about 7×7 inches

With main color CH31

1. SC in 2nd CH from hook and across.  Turn
2. Work Alternate DC Starting Chain in first stitch, and Celtic Weave across changing colors as desire.  Finish with DC in last stitch.

Continue working row 2 until desired length is reached.  For help with color changes refer to the video embeded in this post.

Edging – Finish off all colors except color to be used for edging.  Insert hook into the stitch adjacent to the location of edging color, pull up a loop, CH1 and SC in same stitch and across to corner, *work 3 SC in corner stitch, SC across next side*, repeat from *to* until you meet up with your first stitch of edging.  Finish off and Invisible Join  – Look At What I Made

Here is a few more washcloth ideas that you may like to try!
Wash ClothWash Cloth - Cluster Drop Stitch

Tiny Towels Wash Clothes
Copyright KatiDCreations.  This is an original video tutorial, feel free to link back to it.  Do not embed in your post.

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Marie Louise Poncho

Well it seems I can’t get enough of the Broomstick Lace stitch!  I love it!  Granted it does take a bit of practice to get the hang of it, but I love the finished look.  So with all the craze with Ponchos right now I figured I would challenge myself a bit and try my hand at a Broomstick Lace Poncho!  What do you think?  I think it turned out really well.

Marie Louise Poncho
Dont Forget to Add it to your Favorite and Library in Raverly!

With this pattern I am going to give you the ability to take the single size pattern and customize it to the size that works best for you.  DON’T worry!  I have given in the directions EVERYTHING you need to know to make a larger sized Poncho.  That being said, PLEASE do yourself a favor and read the entire pattern and notes before beginning.

Materials
6.50 mm hook
Loops and Tread Impeccable Yarn
50mm knitting needle

Gauge
7 rows of Front/Back Post Half Double Crochet = 2 inches
8 stitches of Front/Back Post Half Double Crochet = 2 inches

Stitches
SLST – Slip Stitch
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
FPHDC – Front Post Half Double Crochet
BPHDC – Back Post Half Double Crochet
Marie Louise PonchoDifficulty – Intermediate, experience with Broomstick Lace strongly recommended

Tutorial
Broomstick Lace Photo Tutorial
Broomstick Lace Video Tutorial

Joining Circle - Not in the Base ChainIf you have issues joining the Chain and it twisting you can check out THIS tutorial for an alternative way.

Special Notes: This pattern is worked in series of 16 stitches. If you want to make the initial cowl larger or smaller you will need to increase/decrease by 16 CH.
When making the Broomstick Lace rows, the part when you are taking the loops off of the hook, you will increase each row by 16 stitches (4 additional Broomsticks)

Cowl

CH63 + CH2 – (CH2 will count as first DC) – this is the size shown!  If I were to make myself one I would use the same start for the cowl as shown

Row 1: DC in 3rd CH from hook, DC in each stitch around, Join with SLST in first DC (64DC)
Row 2: CH1, FPHDC in first stitch (CH2), BPHDC in next, *FPHDC, BPHDC*, repeat from *to* around. Join with SLST in first FPHDC (64HDC)
Row 3: Repeat row 2 until you get desired height for the cowl

Join the tail of your first CH to the last CH.
Marie Louise PonchoPoncho
(I changed colors from grey to pink at this point)
Row 1: CH1, FPHDC in same as joining and in each stitch around. Join with SLST in first FPHDC
Row 2: CH1, HDC in same as joining and in next 2 stitches, work 2 HDC in next stitch, *HDC in each of the next 3 stitches, work 2HDC in next*, repeat from *to* around (80 HDC) – your stitch count has increased by 16 🙂

Option – You can continue to work rows to make it larger over the shoulders before you start the Broomstick lace. Right now there are 80 stitches. This is the formula is – 80/16 = 5 (96) which means you will work 1 stitch in next 4 stitches, and 2 stitches in 5th stitch. The next row would be 96/16 = 6 (112), work 1 stitch in the next 5 stitches and 2 in the 6th stitch.  Continue to repeat this increasing pattern until you get the size needed. I highly recommend doing this for larger sizes.  But of course if you have the option just try it on the person being made for and go from there!

IF you use the option, remember you are adding 16 additional stitches (4Broomstick stitches), so make sure when you move onto Row 4 you add an additional Broomstick stitch in each repeat.  Modified Row 4 – *take off 4 loops and work 4SC in loops*, repeat from *to* twice more, *take off 4 loops and work 6SC in loops , repeat from *to* once more, ^*take off 4 loops and work 4SC in loops*, repeat from *to* three more, *take off 4 loops and work 6SC in loops*, repeat from *to* once more^, repeat from ^ to^ twice more

Row 3: Pull up loops (you can pull up the loop using booth front and back loop or like shown just work in the back loop)
Row 4: Take off 4 loops, pull up a loop and CH1 and work 4SC in loops, *take off 4 loops and work 4SC in loops*, repeat from *to* once more, *take off 4 loops and work 6SC in loops , repeat from *to* once more, ^*take off 4 loops and work 4SC in loops*, repeat from *to* twice more, *take off 4 loops and work 6SC in loops*, repeat from *to* once more^, repeat from ^ to^ twice more. Join with SLST in first SC

Marie Louise Poncho

Click on photo to read TIP

(I changed colors at this point)
Row 5: CH1, SC in same as joining and in each stitch around. Join with SLST in first SC
Row 6: Pull up loops
Row 7: Take off 4 loops, pull up a loop and CH1 and work 4SC in loops, *take off 4 loops and work 4SC in loops*, repeat from *to* twice more, take off 4 loops and work 8SC in loops, ^*take off 4 loops and work 4SC in loops*, repeat from *to* four more times, take off 4 loops and work 8SC in loops*^, repeat from ^to^ twice more, take off last 4 loops and work 4SC in loops. Join with SLST in first SC

Marie Louise Poncho

Click on photo to read TIP

(I changed colors at this point)
Row 8: CH1, SC in same as joining and in each stitch around. Join with SLST in first SC

Continue to repeat rows 3 – 8 of Poncho until you reach your desired length.  I put a HDC finishing edge on the one pictured.

Copyright KatiDCreations January 2015.  You may chose one photo and link back to the original post.  Please do not re publish any of this pattern or photos or claim them as your own.  Feel free to gift, sell or donate any products made from this pattern!

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Broomstick Lace Crochet Tutorial

This site contains affiliate links and I may be compensated for purchases made, which means more FREE patterns for you!

This is a great Broomstick Lace in the Round tutorial, with lots of photos to help you along the way!

My first attempts were done while using some belting bought at a local craft store.  This worked great, I was able to keep all my loops on and it allowed me to walk away from my project and now worry about losing any loops.  Down side was that I was dealing with a textured, ribbed belting and I was concerned about it causing my yarn to start to get fuzzy.

If you would like to view the Video for Broomstick Lace in a Round tutorial you can find it HERE

Broomstick Lace Tutorial

My second attempt included a size 50 knitting needle and 3 stitch markers.  I would work the circle as far as I could and then I would carefully take all the loops off the needle and put them in the stitch marker, keeping them secure.  Again, this was great as it allowed me to leave my work for sometime and not worry about loosing loops.  But, I had to be careful when I took the loops out of the stitch marker that a loop did not catch.

Broomstick Lace Tutorial

As they say ‘third times a charm’.  The following photos are a step by step process of how I now do my broomstick crochet.  I have not had any issues with loosing loops, as long as you are careful, take your time and pay attention to what you are doing; you should not have any issues either.  And as with any new stitch a bit of practice is recommended before starting a project.

Materials needed:
Yarn of choice
Crochet hook – I am using an H
Large crochet hook or knitting needle to place loops onto.  If you don’t have either of these than get creative!  Try using a turkey baster or a spoon handle.

In this tutorial I am working in the back loops only.

Starting with the joining slip stitch as my first loop
Broomstick Lace Tutorial

I am working from the Left back to the Right
Broomstick Lace Tutorial
Insert your hook from the front to the back of stitch
Broomstick Lace Tutorial
Draw up a loop and place it on the knitting needle
Broomstick Lace Tutorial
I have 13 loops on my needle and can not put any more on Broomstick Lace Tutorial
I took off all 13 loops and then placed the last 4 loops back on the needle, and continue working loops onto the needle until all the loops are pulled up.
Broomstick Lace Tutorial
Once you have pulled up all necessary loops, with yarn in the back of project insert hook into specified loops, in this case 3 loops
Broomstick Lace Tutorial

Pull up a loop Broomstick Lace Tutorial
Chain1 and work specified stitches in those loops, and join with a slip stitch in the first stitch to join the rows togetherBroomstick Lace Tutorial

 for the rest of the loops you will not need to Chain1, just do whatever stitches are directed in the pattern

A hat being made with fine/2 yarn.  You can see that I have completed some stitches while other loops are just hanging there.  broomstick lace tutorial

This is an original tutorial by KatiDCreations August 2014.  No written portion or photos of this may be used with out prior written permission.

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